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June 29, 2004
INDEX
-
Class
Description
-
Anatomy
of On-Point Setting
-
Class
Supply List
-
Focus
Blocks
-
Sashings
-
Cornerstones
-
Cutting
the Edges!
-
Cutting
the Corners!
-
Sewing
on the Edges and Corners
Cutting the
Edges!
This lesson teaches the "math" behind cutting the edges and
Lesson 7 tackles the corners for an on-point quilt setting.
At this point, the quilt
top should look similar to the one shown below. Note that
the three blocks in the middle (scissors, ice cream cone, and
wrench) are sewn together as one row. The block at the
top/left (screwdriver) and the block at the lower/right (hammer)
are not attached to the middle row at this point.

In every On-Point Setting quilt, there are two types of triangles that
are needed: Edges and Corners. In the diagram below, the
pink triangles represent the EDGES and the purple triangles represent
the CORNERS. 
To cut both the edges and the corners, we begin by cutting simple
squares! However, the instructions for a sashed quilt are a
little different than an unsashed quilt. Below, you can find
instructions for both types. Cutting The Edge
Triangles For An Unsashed Quilt (such as the blue/white/pink/purple
example above)
The edge triangles are made from a square that is cut diagonally, both
directions, in an "x" fashion. Each square that you
"x" cut yields four triangles. These four
triangles have bias edges, but we will account for that when we sew
them so that they do not stretch. Although the edges are the
hardest to calculate, with the math simplified, it's a piece of cake!
Note:
Ignore the fact that the photo illustrations in this section do
have sashings! The idea of what it should look similar to is the
same, so forgive me this one time!
-
Count the
number of edge triangles needed for your quilt. In the quilt
that we are making, we simply need four, so one square is all that
is needed. In the blue/white/pink/purple diagram above,
there are eight edges, so two squares would be needed. If,
for some reason, you have a quilt that has a number of edge
triangles that doesn't divide by four equally, then round it up so
that it comes out even. For example, if the quilt has 6
edges, the closest number divisible by four that is larger is 8,
so use 8 instead.
-
Let's do the math.
How many edges do you have? _____ How many squares do
you need? _____
-
Next, you must find
the diagonal measurement of your blocks. The blocks in
our lessons are 10" unfinished, but we need to know the
finished size for this measurement. A 10" unfinished
block is a 9.5" finished block. So, the size of our
block is 9.5". To find the diagonal measurement of the
block, multiply the finished size (9.5") by
1.414. In our case, 9.5 x 1.414 = 13.433.
Always round it up, so 13.433 rounds up to 13.5. So, our
9.5" finished block has a diagonal measurement of
13.5".
-
Using the measurement
derived in step 3, add a minimum of 1.5". So, we
calculated a diagonal measurement of 13.5", so with the
addition of 1.5", we now have 15". Personally, I
usually add 2" to my diagonal measurement because it is best
to have too much rather than too little, so I would cut my squares
15.5".
-
Let's do the math.
My finished block is? _____ My diagonal measurement is
(multiply finished block by 1.414)?
_____ The size of square(s) needed is (add at least
1.5")? _____
-
Cut the number
of squares you need (step 2) the size you came up with in step
5. In the sample above, I will be cutting 1 square for my edge triangles that is
15.5" (because I like a little room for err!). How many
and what size are you cutting?
-
Cut each square
in the "x" fashion to yield 4 smaller triangles, such as
the examples shown below:

Cut the square Cutting the first diagonal of the "x"

Cutting the second diagonal of the
"x"
4 smaller triangles
-
Place your edge
triangles in their positions in your quilt layout, always making
sure that the non-bias edge (the longest edge of the triangle,
when cut in an "x" fashion) of the triangle is on the
outside edge, as shown below:

Layout with the
edges
Closeup of an edge
Note: In the photos above, notice two things:
1) The outside edges of the triangles (the long sides of the
triangles) are also the outside edges of the square(s) when you
cut... this keeps the bias edges on the inside and it results in
non-bias edges on the outside of the quilt top, which is a good
thing, and 2) The triangles are a little larger than the
area that they are going to be sewn in, which is a good thing in
that it gives you room to sew more accurately!
-
Let's review! To
find the dimensions of the squares needed for the edge triangles,
you simply: 1) Determine how many squares you need by
counting the number of edges and dividing by 4 (round up, when
uneven), 2) Find the diagonal of your finished square
by multiplying the finished size by 1.414, then round it up, 3) Add
at least 1.5" to the diagonal size and that is the minimum
size to cut your squares, and 4) Cut each square in an
"x" fashion, that yields 4 smaller triangles.
Cutting The Edge
Triangles For A Sashed Quilt (such as the one being made in this
class)
The edge triangles are cut using the same calculations above, only we
now take into consideration any sashing that you may have. The
sashing is considered to be part of the block when calculating the
edges.
-
Count the
number of edge triangles needed for your quilt. In the quilt
that we are making, we simply need four, so one square is all that
is needed. In the blue/white/pink/purple diagram above,
there are eight edges, so two squares would be needed. If,
for some reason, you have a quilt that has a number of edge
triangles that doesn't divide by four equally, then round it up so
that it comes out even. For example, if the quilt has 6
edges, the closest number divisible by four that is larger is 8,
so use 8 instead.
-
Let's do the math.
How many edges do you have? _____ How many squares do
you need? _____
-
Next, you must find
the diagonal measurement of your blocks. First, figure
out what the finished size of the block would be, and be sure to
include the sashings! For example, a 10" unfinished
block is 9.5" finished. If your finished sashing strips
are 2", add 2" to this to get 11.5" for the
finished block size (always double the finished sashing strip size
to add to the finished block size). To find the diagonal measurement of the
block, multiply the finished size (11.5") by
1.414. In our case, 11.5 x 1.414 = 16.26.
Always round it up, so 16.26 rounds up to 16.5. So, our 11.5" finished block has a diagonal measurement of
16.5".
-
Using the measurement
derived in step 3, add a minimum of 1.5". So, we
calculated a diagonal measurement of 16.5", so with the
addition of 1.5", we now have 18". Personally, I
usually add 2" to my diagonal measurement because it is best
to have too much rather than too little, so I would cut my squares
18.5" for this sashed block.
-
Let's do the math.
My finished block is? _____ If there is a
sashing, the finished width of it is _____, making my finished
block/sashing total _____. My diagonal measurement is
(multiply finished block/sashing by 1.414)?
_____ The size of square(s) needed is (add at least
1.5")? _____
-
Cut the number
of squares you need (step 2) the size you came up with in step
5. I will be cutting 1 square for my edge triangles that is
18.5" (because I like a little room for err!). How many
and what size are you cutting?
-
Cut each square
in the "x" fashion to yield 4 smaller triangles, such as
the examples shown below:

Cut the square Cutting the first diagonal of the "x"

Cutting the second diagonal of the
"x"
4 smaller triangles
-
Place your edge
triangles in their positions in your quilt layout, always making
sure that the non-bias edge (the longest edge of the triangle,
when cut in an "x" fashion) of the triangle is on the
outside edge, as shown below:

Layout with the
edges
Closeup of an edge
Note: In the photos above, notice two things:
1) The outside edges of the triangles (the long sides of the
triangles) are also the outside edges of the square(s) when you
cut... this keeps the bias edges on the inside and it results in
non-bias edges on the outside of the quilt top, which is a good
thing, and 2) The triangles are a little larger than the
area that they are going to be sewn in, which is a good thing in
that it gives you room to sew more accurately!
-
Let's review! To
find the dimensions of the squares needed for the edge triangles,
you simply: 1) Determine how many squares you need by
counting the number of edges and dividing by 4 (round up, when
uneven), 2) Find the diagonal of your finished square
with finished sashing by multiplying the finished size by 1.414, then round it up,
3) Add
at least 1.5" to the diagonal size and that is the minimum
size to cut your squares, and 4) Cut each square in an
"x" fashion, that yields 4 smaller triangles.
Lesson 7 will cut the
corner triangles, Lesson 8 will attach the edge and
corner triangles to the quilt top and wrap up the quilt.
We're getting close to the finish line!
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