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MYSTERY QUILT
6
January
19, 2002 |

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This is
probably the fastest and simplest mystery ever done!
When you finish, you will have a wallhanging with a heart
theme that is approximately 19" x 19". There
is NO binding on this quilt and it will be hand-tied (unless
you choose to machine quilt it, of course). From
beginning to end, this should take less than two (2) hours to
complete. The instructions will be given on this same
page over the space of about a week, so bookmark this page and
check back often to see if there are updates (the easiest way
to know there are updates is to look at the date at the top,
beside the flashing updated image).
Fabric
Requirements and Samples
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Fabric A, White
(Can have a red print in it as long as it
"reads" white. This will be the
heart, so if you want to switch colors, then make
A=red, B=white, and C=red)
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1 strip of
3" x 42"
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1 strip of
2.5" x 42"
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Fabric
B, Red (Can have a print on it as long as it
"reads" red and can even use multiple reds
for a "scrappy" look)
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- 1 strip of 3" x 42"
- 3 strips of 2.5" x
42"
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| Fabric C, White
(Can have a red print in it as long as it
"reads" white and can be the same as Fabric
A or different)
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- 1/4 yard, cut into 2.5"
strips
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| Fabric D, Your Choice
of Color, for the backing
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| Perle Cotton, yarn, or
Embroidery Floss, either red or white
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- Enough to hand-tie a small
wallhanging that is approximately 19" x
19" when finished.
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No Sample Available
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| Batting
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No Sample Available
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Pre-Wash and press
the red and white fabrics, ensuring that they will not shrink or
bleed once sewn into the quilt.
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From the Fabric A (white)
3" strip, cut 8 - 3" squares.
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From the Fabric B (red) 3"
strip, cut 8 - 3" squares.
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Using the 16 3" squares
cut in steps 2 and 3, make 16 half-square triangles (HST) that
measure 2.5" when trimmed. These measure 2"
when finished in the quilt. If you need help making HST,
refer to the HST
Tutorial. You need a total of 16 HST made from Fabrics A
and B. These should look similar to:
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From the Fabric A 2.5"
strip, cut 6 - 2.5" x 2.5" squares.
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From the Fabric B 2.5"
strips, cut 42 - 2.5" x 2.5" squares.
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ACCURACY CHECK:
You should have 6 - 2.5" squares cut from Fabric A, 42 -
2.5" squares cuts from Fabric B, and 16 HST made from A and
B.
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Using 16 of the 2.5"
squares from Fabric B, sew them into two rows, with 8
squares in each row. Press the seams for one of the
rows to the left and the other row to the right. Each row
would look similar to this:

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Using 6 of the 2.5"
squares from Fabric B, and 2 of the 2.5" squares from Fabric
A, sew them into a row of 8 in the following order:
BABBBBAB
Press the seams to the right. It should look similar
to this:

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Using 4 of the Fabric B
2.5" squares, and 4 of the HST, sew them into a row of
8 in the following order (where 'H' represents the HST):
BHHBBHHB
Press the seams to the left. You may use this
illustration as a guide:

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Using 2 of the Fabric B
2.5" squares, 2 of the Fabric A 2.5" squares, and 4 HST,
sew them into a row of 8 in the following order:
BHAHHAHB
Press the seams to the right. You may use this
illustration as a guide:
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Using 4 of the Fabric B
2.5" squares, 2 of the Fabric A 2.5" squares, and 2 HST,
sew them into a row of 8 in the following order:
BABHHBAB
Press the seams to the left. You may use this
illustration as a guide:
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Using 6 of the Fabric B
2.5" squares and 2 HST, sew them into a row of 8 in
the following order: BBBHHBBB
Press the seams to the left. You may use this
illustration as a guide:
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Using 4 of the Fabric B
2.5" squares and 4 HST, sew then into a row of 8
in the following order: BBHHHHBB
Press the seams to the right. You may use this
illustration as a guide:
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ACCURACY CHECK:
You should have 8 rows sewn, with 8 squares in each row.
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Lay the rows out in this
order: Use 1 of the rows from step 8 to start the top row,
then place the row from step 11 next, then step 12, then step 9,
then step 10, then step 13, then from step 8 again.
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Sew the rows together
from the order given in step 16. The seams should
"snug" together due to how they were pressed in steps 8
through 14 above. Once sewn, press these seams in any
direction. The interior of this mystery should look similar
to this:

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Add borders to the left
and right sides using Fabric C (pressing toward the
border), as shown in this sample:

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Now, add the top and
bottom borders, using Fabric C (pressing toward the
border), as shown in this sample:

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Next, we'll begin the process
of putting the quilt together so that it does not have a
binding. This method is called the "quick
turn" or "birthing" method.
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Measure the quilt top
(that you just finished in step 19), then trim the backing
to the exact same size.
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Now, place the backing
and the quilt top right sides together, then pin around the
perimeter (outside edges) of the quilt.
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Using a 1/4" seam (no need
to be scant for this step), sew around the outside edge,
beginning at the bottom, just to the right of the middle and going
all the way around, but being careful to leave an opening
wide enough for your hand so that you can "turn" the
quilt. The following illustration shows the sewing
line. Notice the opening that is left, and it's
location. TIP: If I am going to hang my wallhanging
with loops, this is where I attach them. I make loops, then
place them in the top seam, so that the loops are on the inside
and not showing at this point. When I sew the seam around
the perimeter, I made sure to catch the loop edges in the seam,
and then when I turn the quilt, I have loops with which to
hang. No sewing on a sleeve!

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Trim a piece a batting
so that it fits just inside the 1/4" seam sewn in step
23. Lay the batting on top, then, beginning at the
top right corner, tightly roll the quilt sandwich toward
the opening at the bottom.
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Once at the opening, push
the rolled edge through the hole, then finish turning the
quilt, making sure to smooth it out and have pointed
corners.
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Now, using the embroidery
floss, Perle Cotton, or yarn, hand-tie the small
wallhanging, every 4" or so.
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Here's what mine ended up
looking like, and if you look carefully at the top, you can see
the yarn loops I made during step 23, so that I could hang
it:

© RiverMOO, Inc. 2002

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