INDEX

	Fabric Requirements
	Cutting Requirements
	First Things First, HST
	Stripping!
	Sewing Strips
	A Bit of Appliqué
	Finishing The Quilt

     Mystery Quilt 15 is quite a surprise, even to me.  Why?  Because I went from MQ 14 to MQ 16 and didn't realize until just now (10/19/06) that I had skipped 15!  Of course, now armed with this information, the anal part of me cannot have this gap, thus, this mystery is born.

     Now, before you get your hopes all up, it's very easy, simple, and similar to Mystery Quilt 16 and 17, however this mystery includes a very small amount of appliqué.  One might be thinking, "How can you take a single pattern and make three different-themed quilts?".  All I can answer to that is this:  You have to know me to appreciate me, or something like that.  This offshoot design of the following two mysteries smacked me between the eyes as soon as I realized that MQ 15 needed to be addressed.  Amazingly enough, if you make all three of these mysteries, you will have completely different wallhangings, each with its own unique "branding".

     The theme of this mystery is "autumn" and can be made scrappy.  The primary colors are red, green, and either a white or cream background.  Imagine that... sort of like MQ 16.  EXCEPT, this mystery should NOT be made using Christmas fabrics!  Think autumn fabrics in the red family for this one.  The final measurements for this wallhanging are going to be approximately 31" x 34".  Since it's extremely similar to the other two, why not make all three?

     And, as usual, please share a photograph with me when you finish it so that I can display it in our gallery!

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS:

     There are three (3) basic fabrics in this wallhanging.  Since it is an autumn theme, the fabric families should include these colors:  Red, Green, and either White or Cream.  As mentioned above, if you wish, you can make this scrappy, as long as you stay within these color ranges.  However, if you feel you absolutely must go shopping, here is what I might look for:  A leafy green, a light background that is either white on white, cream on cream, white with a very light green print, or cream with a very light green print.  If you choose either of the latter, with the light green print on the background, make absolutely positive that it reads either "white" or "cream" from a distance and that the print isn't so busy that it is distracting from the overall lightness of the background.  As for the reds, if I were shopping, I'd look at reds that are autumn/fall themed.  You'll be using these reds as the "body" of the wallhanging and also as the borders. 

Here are my fabric color selections: 

     AMOUNTS:

	1/2 yard of Light background - In my example, I used a white with a fine print on it.  This needs to be light in color and have a sharp contrast against the other two (2) colors.  You can even choose cream, if you prefer it over white.  If you do choose a fabric with a fine print in it, make sure that it goes well with autumn/fall colors.
	1/2 yard of a border print - This should be an autumn/fall fabric.  In my example above, it is the red mottled print.
	3/8 yard of a "body" print - By "body", I mean the interior of the wallhanging.  This "body" is, for now, a mystery.  In my example above, the red print is included in my "body".  This is where you can be creative.  You do not have to use the same red print for all of the "body".  In fact, the more different red prints you have, the more interesting it will look.  If, however, you cannot afford to purchase a zillion red autumn/fall prints, then I highly suggest that you choose one print that is large and busy, so that when it is cut up into smaller pieces, the pieces look as though they came from different fabrics.  This is also a good time to go stash-diving, if you have a good selection of red prints!
	1/3 yard of a green/autumn/fall fabric - This is for your binding.  Mostly.
	1 yard of your choice of fabric - This is for your backing.

    Now, to summarize.  The "body" is made up of reds, as is the border.  The binding is green.  The background is either cream or white.  If you choose to switch things up a bit, go for it:  The only thing you should NOT switch is the background.  The background should remain either white or cream.  However, you could make your "body" and border from different red fabrics, or you could even choose any autumn/fall print for the border (and the body, too); just make sure the body reads red.  The border can read any autumn/fall color you desire, as long as you coordinate it with the red body (unless, unlike me, coordinating fabrics isn't high on your list of priorities).  Your binding, as you can already guess, can be anything that would contrast well against whatever you choose for your border.

     Go stash diving or shopping!

CUTTING REQUIREMENTS:

     Time to do some simple cutting!

Light Background	6 - 4" x 4" squares 42 - 3" x 3" squares
Red(s) for the "Body"	4 - 4" x 4" squares 37 - 3" x 3" squares
Green	1 - 3" x 3" square

 FIRST THINGS FIRST, HST!

 

WHAT YOU NEED
4	4" x 4" Light Background squares
4	4" x 4" Red(s)

     This project consists of eight (8) half-square triangle (HST) pieces.  To make these, use your favorite method to make HST using four (4) of the 4" x 4" light background squares and four (4) of the 4" x 4" red(s) from the "body".  Once these HST are made, cut them down to a perfect 3" x 3".  They should look similar to the illustration below.

  A HST Tutorial is provided if you do not have a favorite method of making them.  This tutorial is simple to use and understand and the end results are HST that are the perfect size!

STRIPPING!

     This project consists of 10 strips, each containing nine (9) squares, for a total of 90 squares.  In this section, we are making nine (9) of the 10 strips, and part of the 10th strip. 

 

WHAT YOU NEED
8	3" x 3" red/light background HST, sewn in the previous section
42	3" x 3" Light Background squares
37	3" x 3" Red(s)

     We are going to sew together 81 (9 strips of 9 squares) squares, eight (8) of which are the 3" HST made in the section above.  In addition to the eight (8) HST, you now need 36 of the 3" light background squares and 37 of the 3" red "body" squares.    We are also going to sew two (2) sections of the 10th strip.

1. Sew nine (9) light background squares together to form a strip, as shown below.
   

2. Repeat step 1, so that you now have two (2) strips of light background, each containing nine (9) squares.

3. Sew three (3) light background squares together to form a partial strip, as shown below.
   

4. Repeat step 2, so that you now have two (2) partial strips of light background, each containing three (3) squares.

5. Sew a strip of nine (9) squares in this order (L indicates "light background" and R indicates "red body"): 
   L R R R R R R R L, as shown below.
   

6. Repeat step 5 two (2) more times, so that you end up with three (3) strips that are LRRRRRRRL.

7. Sew a strip of nine (9) squares in this order (H indicates HST):  LLHRRRHLL.  Refer to the illustration below to see the directional placement of the HSTs in the strip.  It is extremely important that the HST be placed in the correct direction!
   

8. Repeat step 7, so that you end up with two (2) strips that are LLHRRRHLL.

9. Sew a strip of nine (9) squares in this order:  LHRRRRRHL.  Refer to the illustration below to see the directional placement of the HSTs in this strip.    It is extremely important that the HST be placed in the correct direction!
   

10. Repeat step 9, so that you end up with two (2) strips that are LHRRRRRHL.

At this point, you should have sewn together nine (9) full strips of nine (9) squares each, plus two (2) short strips of three (3) squares each, as shown below.

2 of these
 

2 of these

3 of these

2 of these

2 of these

     At this point, you only have remaining one (1) 3" green square and two (2) 4" light background squares.

STRIP SEWING:

     It is time to begin sewing your strips together.  This section sews all of the strips, except for two (2).  This should take you no time at all to complete!

     Pressing tip:  As you add each row, press all of the squares to one direction, then the row that you sew on next, press in the opposite direction.  This way, they will "snug" together when you're sewing the rows together.  Alternate pressing back and forth from row to row throughout the entire top.  I have found that, by using this method of pressing, I have no need of pinning.  The opposing seams imitate pinning themselves by snugging up against each other.

1. Sew one of the solid rows of light background to one of the rows with two (2) light backgrounds on each end.  Be sure that the row of solids is on bottom!  Refer to the following illustration:
   
   
   
    

2. To this, add a row that has one (1) light background on each end, next to a HST.  This one is now on top and should look like this:
   
   
   
   
    

3. I'm betting you already know where this is going!!!!  Next, sew the three (3) strips together that have a solid on each end and solid reds in the rest of it.  This is illustrated below:
   
   
   
   
    

4. Now, sew the piece from step 3 to the top of the piece in step 2.  It should now look similar to this:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
    

5. Add another strip to the top of the piece in step 4 that has one (1) light background on each end, next to a HST.  Be careful of how the placement of this one is!  It now looks like this:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
    

6. Lastly, sew another strip to the top of the piece in step 6 that has two (2) light backgrounds on each end, next to a HST.  Again, be careful of how you place it!  This piece is almost complete and should look similar to this:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

     At this point, you should only have one (1) solid row of light background squares (like the bottom row directly above), and the two (2) short solid rows of light background squares (three squares per each short row).

     It won't be long before this mystery is no longer a mystery!  And no, it isn't a stop sign.  However, I strongly considered leaving out the middle row and making it one (I actually have a mockup of it that I considered adding!)!  Yet another idea for the same basic design as MQ 15, 16,  and 17.  I didn't dare throw MQ 18 at you, though.  I still would like to have a friends left after this is over.  ;)  Happy sewing!!! 

A BIT OF APPLIQUÉ:

     This section is going to be done a little backwards.  Instead of me giving you instruction, then showing you what it should look like I'm going to show you what it should look like first.  This way, you can choose your favorite method of appliqué in order to finish this strip.

     The first three (3) and last three (3) are the short strips that you already have sewn.  That leaves us with the middle section, which involves just a bit of appliqué.  The appliqué leaf pattern measures 4" x 4", however, depending on your browser and/or printer settings, you may have to reduce or enlarge it to get it to the right size for the squares.  Keep in mind that the size of the squares after you appliqué the leaves on should be 3" x 3".

1. Appliqué the leaf pattern to one of the remaining 4" x 4" light background squares.  Trim this square down to 3" x 3".

2. Appliqué the leaf pattern to another 4" x 4" light background square.  Trim this square down to 3" x 3".

3. Sew the two (2) leaf appliqués sewn in steps 1 and 2 to the green 3" x 3" square.  This now forms a short third strip.

4. Sew the light background short strips to each end of this appliqué strip and it should look similar to the figure above.

5. Next, sew the solid strip of light background to the top of the strip that you just sewed, so that it resembles this:
   
   
   
    

6. Lastly, sew these two strips to the top of the section that you sewed together in the last section.  At this point, the quilt top resembles this:
   
   

FINISHING THE QUILT:

     Now, to add the borders and cornerstones.  And in case you haven't figured it out yet, this is an apple!

1. Measure the length of the right side of the top and then cut a border that is 4" wide by the length that you just measured.

2. Repeat step 1 for the left side of the top.

3. Measure the width of the top side of the quilt top, then cut a border that is 4" wide by the length of what you just measured.

4. Repeat step 3 for the bottom of the quilt top.  Each of these strips should resemble this:
   
   
    

5. Sew the first border onto the right side.  Press the seam toward the border.

6. Sew the second border onto the left side.  Press the seam toward the border.  This should now resemble is:
   
   
    

7. Sew a 4" x 4" square onto each end of the two (2) remaining 4" strips; one for the top of the quilt and one for the bottom (See step 12 for an option here).  These should resemble this:
   
   
    

8. Press the seams in the two sewn strips away from the squares on the end.

9. Sew one strip onto the top of the quilt top.  The corner squares should "snug" together, since the seams were pressed in opposite directions.

10. Sew the final strip onto the bottom of the quilt top.  The quilt top now resembles this:
    
    
     

11. Quilt as desired.  Bind using 2.5" strips.  The finished quilt top resembles this:
    
    
     

12. OPTIONS for the four (4) corner squares:  Appliqué more leaves or apples in these corners to give it a little more zip!  Again, you may have to enlarge or reduce the patterns to fit them to these squares.
    
    Apple Appliqué: 

     This quilt with appliquéd apples would look similar to this:

     That's it for this mystery!  Hope that you enjoyed it and if you have any photographs of your finished apple wallhanging, I would love to see them!  In fact, I'd love to add one to this page!

     Wouldn't this make the perfect gift for your child's teacher?

     Freida made this very lovely quilt and added her own personal appliqués to finish it off!  Amazing work!

     Happy Quilting!

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